Dolcetto d'Alba a chat with producers

Dolcetto d’Alba DOC is a wine that wins you over at first sip. But what makes this Piedmontese red so special?

In addition to its fascinating history-which seems to date back to the 1500s-as well as its absolute versatility and ability to accompany the best traditional Piedmontese dishes, we wanted to dig deep, having the producers of this unique wine reveal a few secrets to us. Are you ready to toast with us?

We would like to thank Cecilia Monte of the winery of the same name in Neive, Franco Ariano, owner of Cascina Fontanette in Santo Stefano Belbo, and Marco Rosselli ofAzienda Agricola Rusel for taking the time to join us!

What are the main peculiarities that distinguish it from other wines in the area?

Cecilia — This is a fresh wine that should be drunk young-generally it is drunk in the vintage.

We tend not to let it exceed thirteen and a half degrees of alcohol, so it can even be consumed as a snack!

In addition, it has very characteristic traits: notes of white pepper and almond, typical of Dolcetto and absent in other wines of the area.

Franco — It is a more amiable and fragrant wine than Barbera. It is pleasantly drinkable because it has a low alcohol content.

Marco — The typicality of the aromas, smoothness and ease of drinking. Its alcohol content ranges from 12 1/2 to 13.

It is a wine that if drunk too young or too old is wasted-I think the best time to appreciate it is from the summer after the harvest to the following year.

Already a year after the actual harvest, in my opinion, there is a decline in aroma and structure.

What are the most important challenges in making this wine?

Cecilia — Undoubtedly, it is a difficult grape to manage, both in the vineyard and in the winery, because it often has “deviations” that must be avoided in order not to find stinks in the bottle.

Economically, it is certainly the least profitable wine we have in terms of production per hectare.

If one were to dwell on the final bill, it would convert the vineyard to other grape varieties (such as barbera or nebbiolo), also because, being known on the market as a “simple” and meal wine, one is going to go up against low-medium price ranges. I, however, want to continue to believe in it because it is part of our tradition.

Soon we will have to harvest it (presumably between September 7 and 15), and we imagine a classic harvest: there are grapes and the yield should be more than good, however, we are about ten days later than in past years.

In addition, dolcetto suffers from low nighttime temperatures, so one has to hope that they do not drop too much.

Franco — At one time our problem, climate-wise, was dictated by cold weather.

These days, however, we are more concerned about rising temperatures; however, by having good equipment in the cellar, we are able to do temperature-controlled fermentation and manage this issue better.

Around mid-September we will start with the grape harvest, and we expect it to be a very good year: it rained a lot in the spring and very little in the summer, so the quality should be good.

Marco — Climatically speaking, dolcetto is a grape that is sensitive to sun and too much heat, so it goes into concentration very early.

Moisture before harvest or thunderstorms with hailstorms do more damage to dolcetto than other varieties because if the skin is damaged, rot starts immediately, which limits ripening.

It is a grape that needs a lot of work, both in the vineyard and in the winery, to prevent “stink” from coming in and damaging it.

We will harvest it from September 10-15 onward, and this year and expect very good quality-we were able to avoid hail and control any fungal diseases, so the product is nice.

From a matching perspective, what might be the best choices?

Cecilia — Being a wine for everyday consumption, it goes well with many dishes, but especially with a good vitello tonnato, a local salume or toma cheese!

Franco — I would pair it with white meats, with not too strong flavors, such as chicken or turkey.

Marco — I like to pair this wine with raw meat (both albese and tartare) because it is usually low in acidity and does not overpower the flavors. Alternatively, cold or hot appetizers, such as flan and fondue, are also perfect.

On the market, domestic and international, what kind of opportunities does it present?

Cecilia — We sell Dolcetto mainly in Piedmont; we also export a lot of it to England and Japan (here because of a low alcohol tolerance issue).

Marco — Dolcetto is appreciated, even if the consumer does not know much about it. If the importer or wine shop wants to market it, it sells very well, but very little Dolcetto is produced, and locals prefer to offer other wines because they have more margin.

In addition, the market, both Italian and worldwide, is focused on more structured and less simple wines with higher alcohol content, such as Barbera and Nebbiolo.

It is mainly sold in the area and neighboring regions, such as Lombardy and Liguria, because it is seen as the cheapest Piedmontese wine. Restaurants, however, struggle to manage their cellars because it must be consumed within the year.

What future do you foresee for this wine?

Cecilia — I hope it will become sought after again as it was 30 years ago. There are not many of us producing it now, especially in the Langhe area: more of a hope than a prediction!

Franco — It is a wine on the upswing compared to the past. In recent years more space has been given to Barbera, Nebbiolo, stronger wines.

Now we have found a breakthrough in the winery, because being very versatile it sells well and is also received in the proper way by the end customer, fortunately.

Marco — It is a vine that has been massively weeded out in recent years so by getting to make little of it, it will become good and expensive!