When men drink, then
they are rich and lucky and win
suits in court and are happy and
help their friends.
(Aristophane, The knights)
In September, all around Cuneo big feasts are made for the just-ripen corn, the so-called “meliga”.
A cascade of red-orange grains, a ray of light in the incoming autumn, when Dolcetto grapes have already been harvested.
On the hills of the Langhe the main feast is the one of the harvest, but it’s a short one, celebrated only in the fields, while everyone is gathering those turgid and beautiful bunches of grapes; a quick celebration because of the rain that could come and spoil everything, and because of all the work that still has to be done.
The true feast are the hands and hearts of the vendemmioire, their quick lunch break, made of a soma d’aj and some grapes.
The meeting under the backyard porch for peeling the corncobs, for despojé (a term that originated many laughs among young people, meaning “to undress”) can be compared to the harvest feast, because in La Morra it usually took place between the feast for the harvest of Dolcetto and Nebbiolo grapes.
The cobs, after having been peeled, were gathered and hung until dry.
Recipes
In this despojé feast the traditional menu was made of polenta, served with three special sauces, a kind of gastronomic archeology: the cognà, the tàrtra salata, and the bagna ‘d l’infern.
Then, the feast continued with the hare in civet and, completely changing the traditional menus, the cheese was replaced by a hot cup of fondue with Alba white truffle.
Then, the paste di meliga and later, when everyone was chatting, a hot cup of vin brulé.
Only two kinds of wine were allowed: Dolcetto d’Alba with the polenta, Barolo and vintage barolo after it, also with the sweets.
Armando Gambera
A chemistry graduate from the University of Turin, he works as a secondary school chemistry teacher. For many years, he has focused his studies and research on the field of cookery, wine and cheese, especially those of the Langhe area of Italy. He contributes to Slow Food guides on the subject (‘Osteria d’Italia’, ‘Le Strade del Barolo’, ‘Barolo e Barbaresco’, ‘Guida delle Langhe e del Roero’, ‘Le ricette delle osterie di Langa’, ‘Formaggi d’Europa’). He has written books for the La Morra Municipal Cellar: ‘La cucina e i vini di La Morra’ (The cuisine and wine of La Morra), ‘La vigna in etichetta, storia del Barolo di La Morra’ (Vineyards in Labels, the History of La Morra Barolo). His monograph ‘La cucina di Alba nel Novecento’ (1900s Cuisine in Alba) features in the book edited by the Famija Albeisa, ‘Il grande libro della cucina di Alba’ (The Great Book of Alba Cuisine). He writes for magazines (Barolo & Co.; Slowfood; L’Assaggiatore; Itinerari in Piemonte). He is a Master Taster of cheeses and holds the position of Vice President of ONAF (National Organisation of Cheese Tasters); he holds lessons in wine and cheese tasting and organises cookery courses held in restaurants throughout Langa. His cookery courses have given rise to two recipe books: ‘Cucinando col vino’ (Cooking with Wine) and ‘Cucina d’autunno’ (Autumn Cooking).
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Laureato in chimica presso l’Università di Torino, è professore di chimica nelle scuole superiori. Da parecchi anni si dedica allo studio e alla ricerca nel campo della cucina, dei vini e dei formaggi, in particolare delle Langhe. Collabora alle guide del settore pubblicate dallo Slow Food ("Osteria d’Italia", "Le strade del Barolo", "Barolo e Barbaresco", "Guida delle Langhe e del Roero", "Le ricette delle osterie di Langa", "Formaggi d’Europa"). Per la Cantina Comunale di La Morra ha scritto i libri: "La cucina e i vini di La Morra", "La vigna in etichetta, storia del Barolo di La Morra". Su "Il grande libro della cucina di Alba", edito dalla Famija Albeisa, compare la sua monografia "La cucina di Alba nel Novecento". Scrive su alcune riviste (Barolo & Co.; Slowfood; L’Asssaggiatore; Itinerari in Piemonte). E’ Maestro Assaggiatore di formaggi e ricopre la carica di Vicepresidente dell’ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori di Formaggi); tiene lezioni di degustazione dei vini e dei formaggi, organizza corsi di scuola di cucina presso i ristoranti di Langa. Dai corsi di cucina ha tratto due ricettari: "Cucinando col vino" e "Cucina d’autunno".
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