Meeting with Gianfranco Torelli The first Italian organic wine born in a GMO-free territory

Today we have the pleasure of meeting Gianfranco Torelli, a leading figure in the world of organic and sustainable viticulture.

His winery holds a historical record: it was the first in Italy to obtain, in January 1993, the T000001 organic certification for the 1992 Moscato d’Asti, the first Italian wine made from grapes grown according to organic farming principles.

With years of hands-on experience and a deep passion for his work, Gianfranco has made a significant contribution to the spread of environmentally friendly agricultural practices, helping numerous producers embrace the path of organic viticulture.

During this chat, in which he certainly didn’t hold back, Gianfranco tells us about the challenges faced, the satisfactions gained, and his commitment to the territory of Bubbio, also offering a look at the future prospects of viticulture that is increasingly attentive to environmental balance and sustainability.

When did your sensitivity towards organic farming and environmental issues begin?

Gianfranco — My attention to the environment began well before I started producing wine. I was about 17 or 18 when I joined the Valle Bormida Pulita association, an environmental movement that fought for the closure of Acna, a chemical dye factory in Cengio. That battle, in the ’90s, really managed to unite everyone: adults, children, politicians, mayors of all orientations. And it led, in the end, to the closure of the plant and the start of the clean-up.

Experiencing a strong collective commitment to protecting the territory has deeply marked me. It was natural for me and my father to start questioning some widespread agricultural practices of the time, carried out without considering the environmental impact.

In the ’80s, moreover, the concept of sustainability had not yet entered the agricultural debate, and talking about organic farming seemed almost out of place. That’s precisely why we felt the need to change course.

How did the journey that led you to receive certification for the first organic wine produced in Italy unfold?

Gianfranco — In 1987, together with my father, we decided to embark on the path of organic agriculture in our vineyards. At that time, there was still no official regulation: there were only some pioneering movements that were laying the foundations for what would later become the European regulation.

We started informally, with self-certification and “adherence to the Piedmont-Liguria Consortium for organic agriculture. It was only in 1991 that the EEC regulation finally arrived, establishing norms for viticulture as well. There was still no talk of organic wine in the strict sense, but of wine obtained from grapes grown using organic methods. It was far from” a simple transition, also hindered by resistance from some industry lobbies.

In 1992, the first registrations in the European system began, and in January 1993, we obtained the T000001 certification for our Moscato d’Asti DOCG San Gròd, recognized as the first certified Italian wine produced from grapes cultivated according to the principles of organic agriculture.

What are the steps that lead to organic conversion?

Gianfranco — The conversion to organic is a process that involves both agronomic and regulatory aspects. From a technical point of view, many of the chemical molecules used in conventional viticulture remain active in the plant for years: this is why at least three seasons are necessary before a vineyard can truly be called organic.

In parallel, the regulations also provide for a transition period of three years, during which the company is required to apply the principles and practices of organic agriculture, while not yet being able to certify its products as such.

What has been the impact of organic farming on viticulture in general?

Gianfranco — Organic agriculture has had a positive impact on the entire agricultural sector, stimulating innovation even in the field of plant protection products. It has indeed pushed the industry to develop new sustainable solutions, such as resistance inducers, substances that strengthen the plant’s natural defenses instead of acting directly on pathogens.

Today, it’s undeniable that the world of organic farming represents a valuable stimulus for viticulture as a whole, not only for organic wine producers but also for those who adopt more environmentally conscious conventional practices.

Bubbio is the town of firsts: first organic wine, but also the first anti-gmo municipality in Italy.

Gianfranco — In 1999, our municipality, Bubbio, was the first in Italy to declare itself officially anti-GMO, thanks to a resolution that I personally promoted in my role as deputy mayor. This choice, of great importance, started a movement that today counts over 1,800 administrations across the country.

It was a strong and significant message: if it had remained confined to Bubbio, it would have had no effect. Instead, it was extended to provinces, some regions, and mountain communities, forcing politics to take it seriously.

How do you see the future of organic farming in the face of a market that seems to demand large-scale production?

Gianfranco — Today, one of the main problems is wine overproduction. So I wonder what sense it makes to continue with traditional agriculture that aims only at maximum yield, often at the expense of the environment, if the market doesn’t absorb that surplus. Especially in a sector like wine, where the real goal should be the balance of the plant, because that’s where quality is born.

For this reason, organic farming, for me, represents today the most coherent choice for a conscious and responsible approach, especially in a sector like viticulture, which has a direct impact on the environment.

That said, I believe that organic agriculture is not the only valid and intelligent way to approach viticulture. You can practice good viticulture by doing, for example, intelligent integrated pest management.

What, in your opinion, are the fundamental principles on which agriculture should be based today?

Gianfranco — I believe that agriculture should be based on four fundamental pillars: product quality, connection with the territory, environmental sustainability (essential, which concerns all companies regardless of the agricultural method adopted), and finally social sustainability, which also involves respecting labor contracts and the rights of those working in this sector.

What agronomic or oenological practices do you use to preserve the natural quality of wine?

Gianfranco — From an oenological point of view, I adopt all the good practices of traditional winemaking also followed by colleagues who produce excellent non-organic wine. My approach is based on technical expertise, without extremism.

In recent years, I’ve been focusing my efforts on strengthening vines naturally and therefore on the balance of the plant. The goal is to obtain more resistant and energetically ready vines that require fewer interventions and treatments, in a long-term sustainability perspective.

We follow a precise protocol that uses natural products such as seaweed, microelements capable of stimulating the plant’s internal defenses, and beneficial bacilli that colonize parasites. It’s a preventive strategy with minimal environmental impact, which fully reflects the principles of sustainable agriculture.

What advice would you give to a young winemaker who wants to embark on the path of organic farming?

Gianfranco — Viticulture can offer many satisfactions: seeing the wine made by you and your family appreciated all over the world is a great joy.

If our young winemaker has already gained experience, I would invite them to reflect on environmental sustainability. It’s not necessary to be organic to practice good agriculture, but adopting a sustainable and courageous approach over time brings many satisfactions.

After so many years of work and recognition, what still excites you about your job?

Gianfranco — I’ll answer by reflecting on the 2024 vintage, which was a truly difficult season. We were hoping for a rainy winter, which didn’t come, while in spring we had incessant rain.

For some time now, I’ve been offering agronomic consultations to bring local companies closer to organic viticulture. Over the years, I’ve followed the conversion of five companies in Bubbio, now certified organic. Additionally, I support other realities that, while not organic, closely follow my advice. Together, in September, we managed to bring home a healthy harvest with a good quantity of grapes.

This experience confirmed to me that working on the balance of the plants using appropriate products has allowed the vines to stay healthy. Thanks to the interventions allowed in organic agriculture, we managed to achieve a truly satisfying harvest. This really moved me and was a source of great satisfaction.