Piedmont, always. A focus on Arturo Bersano

There are some figures whose eclectic and innovative spirit transcends time and place, leaving a recognizable trace of their work in future generations.

Such is the case with Arturo Bersano (known to most as Bersano), a prominent figure for wine and fine-drinking enthusiasts, although not everyone knows how he has valorized Piedmont wines and their connection to their territory of origin.

Who, then, was Arturo Bersano? I think it is worthwhile to delve into the history of this extraordinary character, and to tell the story of the impact he left on wine culture.

The historical and territorial context

The name Bersano is linked to an emblematic territory: that of production of Barbera d’Asti, one of Piedmont’s iconic grape varieties.

Its roots lie in Nizza Monferrato, the beating heart of the area of the same name, where it was born in 1900.

At that time, the town had a population of about 9,800, a figure slightly lower than today, and its economy was largely based on wine production and trade, as well as the activity of industries related to the processing of agricultural products.

1907 marked the founding of the winery by Giuseppe Francesco Bersano, Arturo’s father and a butcher by trade with a strong passion for wine.

Bersano’s was a winery like many others, family-run, at a time of major socio-economic transformations, when wine was produced partly for home consumption, while surplus grapes reached the large marketplaces of nearby local markets.

Early approaches to viticulture

Arturo inherited from his father a love of the land and of grape growing, but what made him unforgettable was his ability to look to the future with a modern and innovative vision.

After earning a law degree, he chose to devote himself entirely to viticulture, with the intention of elevating the quality and fame of Piedmont wines.

As he himself recounts, he climbed onto the cask in his father’s cellar and dropped the Pandette (the law texts used for study) inside, seeing them, without remorse, get lost in the vat:

Act not to drown the judge, but to let the heart speak

Arturo bersano

So it was that, in 1935, Arturo took over the management of the historic Cantina Bersano winery, which at the time was based at the Cascina Cremosina, purchased by the Bersano family in 1912, transforming it into one of Piedmont’s most highly regarded wineries.

Farmhouse, wine and territory

For Bersano, the farmstead was not only the symbol of Piedmont’s agricultural tradition, but the starting point for producing good wine. Even today, much of the winery’s vineyards stretch around eight historic estates, acquired over the years and located between the Langhe and Monferrato.

Arturo maintained that although excellent wines can be found on the market, nothing can match the authenticity and quality that come from absolute control of the supply chain, a result possible only through meticulous work that begins in the vineyard and is completed in the bottle.

Hence his maxims:

If you want to drink well, buy a vineyard.
If you want to drink well, drink a Bersano.

Arturo bersano

Arturo was a pioneer in the introduction of modern winemaking techniques and a master in enhancing the link between wine and terroir, anticipating fundamental concepts such as terroir.

Building on these principles, he helped rediscover native grape varieties such as barbera, nebbiolo and the sweet aromatics brachetto and moscato, helping to lay the foundation for the establishment of the controlled designation of origin for Piedmont wines.

The man beyond the producer

To describe Arturo Bersano in his entirety is a challenge: wine was the center of his existence, transcending the mere marketing of his brand.

He was cultured, creative, eclectic, a storyteller of peasant labors, and a lover of good company (he founded in 1968 the Confraternity of Bagna Cauda, a goliardic association established for the purpose of safeguarding the ancient convivial traditions of Piedmont and good food).

Aware of the risk that time might cause what was being established in those years to fade or be undermined, Arturo also became a communicator.

With his storytelling skills he was a modern promoter and spokesman for his host territory.

His project came to life with the creation of the Farmers’ Museum and the Collection of Wine Prints, two places that still tell the story and culture of wine.

The Farmers’ Museum, conceived in 1950 and opened in 1961, is a unique wine and ethnographic museum that celebrates the farming tradition and the art of viticulture.

The Collection of Oenological Prints, established in 1970, finds space in the refined Art Nouveau building that was once the home of the Bersano family. Here wine becomes the protagonist of a dialogue with art, interweaving with painting, poetry, graphics and rare texts, demonstrating its ability to inspire and enrich different cultural expressions.

Bersano today

With Arturo’s passing, the leadership of the company passed to the Massimelli and Soave families in 1985.

They are the ones to strengthen the company’s assets, expanding the network of farmsteads with the acquisition of Generala in Agliano Terme and the San Pietro estate in Castagnole Monferrato, alongside Arturo’s historic Cremosina and Badarina, the mainstay of the start-up of Barolo production.

Today the property is wholly owned by the four Massimelli sisters, with Federica at the helm, joined by her son.

The winery manages 230 hectares of vineyards, following each stage of production with care and dedication, in line with Arturo’s vision and his guiding principles.

The Historic Bersano Cellars can be visited daily except Mondays, Sundays and holidays, with hours 9 a.m.-1 p.m. and 2-6 p.m. Reservations are required.