Women and Wine #4 Emanuela and Federica - Serio and Battista Borgogno

Women and wine, the voice of the producers of Langa, Roero and Monferrato

“Women and wine” aims to be a column that gives voice, time after time, to female figures in the enology and viticulture of Langhe, Roero and Monferrato. These are stories chosen for tenacity, courage, that in our opinion have something to teach.

How masculine is the world of wine still? Does any trace still remain, in any way, of the “roles” of the past? Without knowing the answer, but with an interest in asking the question, we interview some of the women who are writing a new chapter in the history of this area.

The Serio and Battista Borgogno winery, with a history of more than 120 years, embodies the evolution of the Langhe, rightfully belonging among the entities that have transformed the agricultural vocation into a heritage of the highest value.

For two generations, women have been running the company: initially sisters Anna and Paola Borgogno, followed today by their respective daughters, Federica Boffa and Emanuela Bolla.

We had the pleasure of having a nice chat with Federica, who talked to us about generational transitions, visions, memories, experiments and attitudes, which make the world of wine so fascinating.

What are the core values that the family wanted to preserve in the various generational changes?

FEDERICA — Comparing generations always brings with it different challenges and visions, but for us it has been an opportunity for growth and innovation. The transition has not been without moments of confrontation, especially in vineyard management.

At the same time, we wanted to broaden our horizons, focusing on commercial growth and brand awareness, without ever distorting our essence as a family business with deep roots.

We believe that innovation does not mean breaking with the past, but rather enriching an identity with new perspectives and experiences.

A concrete example? In 2018 we experimented with an all-steel vinification with whole clusters in fermentation for two wines. The result won us over, so much so that we decided to apply this technique to some Barolo wines as well.

We are deeply connected to our roots, but we believe that the future belongs to those who can evolve without losing sight of their history.

Today Barolo is a symbol of winemaking excellence, how have you experienced and interpreted the evolution of the area?

FEDERICA — When I was a child, Barolo had a different perception. I was told that, in order to make it known, it was given as a free gift to those who bought Dolcetto, because at the time it was a wine that was considered difficult, little known and received with a certain diffidence.

Today the situation has changed dramatically: Barolo has become an icon in the wine world, but this transformation did not happen by accident.

Our winery has always maintained its traditional spirit; we follow nature with the utmost respect, interpreting each vintage according to its peculiarities.

We do not work with a rigid or predetermined method, but let the wine show us the way, adapting each choice to the characteristics of that year’s harvest. We think that making wine is an ongoing dialogue with the land and time.

You and Emanuela are the face of the winery today: how do you share the work?

FEDERICA — We have found a balance that reflects our inclinations: I am mainly involved in marketing, hospitality, export and travel, while Emanuela is more focused on vineyard and winery management.

We are interchangeable when needed, but we have built a division that values our skills and passions, allowing us to grow the winery with a clear, shared vision.

Regarding the bureaucratic side, we each follow the aspects more related to their own area but of course, being a family-run business, in reality we often find ourselves handling a little bit of everything, adapting to the needs of the moment.

In the once male-dominated world of wine, the role of women is growing more and more. Have you encountered particular challenges along the way or do you notice a positive change in the industry?

FEDERICA — Over the past decade, the wine world has made great strides in this respect. Women are increasingly present and their role is clearly growing. One only has to attend an industry event to realize this.

Of course, some obstacles still exist. There are preconceptions that endure and mental patterns that need to be dismantled, and sometimes getting your way requires extra effort. But change is underway, and it is now there for all to see.

Was there a moment when you realized that this would be your path? Or was it a natural transition?

FEDERICA — For both of us, the connection with the winery has always been a staple. Emanuela studied architecture, I studied graphic design – different paths, but which ultimately brought us back here quite naturally.

Growing up in this world means absorbing every nuance of it since childhood: more than a choice, it was an inevitable path, a legacy of passion and dedication.

Our grandfather was a key figure in transmitting this way of understanding life to us. We spent our days at Cannubi, we went to school in Barolo, and once we returned, between homework, our play space was the countryside. The vineyard, the wine, the winery-all this has been part of us forever.

What advice would you give to a girl who is approaching this world professionally?

FEDERICA — Follow your passion, always. It sounds like a cliché, but it is the greatest truth. This is a world that can be extraordinary, but also challenging, and the only reliable compass is how you feel. Don’t fear judgment, don’t let preconceived notions stop you, don’t wait for someone to tell you you can do it.

Every vine needs its time to grow strong and bear extraordinary fruit. So do you: sink your roots into your ideas, protect your dreams and go on, straight ahead. Because if wine knows how to wait for the right moment to express itself at its best, you must allow yourself the same privilege.