Young Wines and Beaujolais Nouveau

Alcoholic fermentation, or the transformation of grape sugars into ethyl alcohol, was studied at length by Pasteur, who identified microorganisms as the ones responsible for the phenomenon.

A group of researchers at the French scientific station in Narbonne accidentally discovered so-called “carbonic maceration” in 1934.

They had placed the grape clusters under a curtain of carbon dioxide for several weeks and eventually found that they had fermented. They decided, therefore, to proceed with rapid winemaking.

Like so many great discoveries in history, Beaujolais Nouveau was born, and it was born by accident.

Thanks to the studies of Prof. Claude Flanzy (1940-1950) at the SupAgro Institute in Montpellier, the process was perfected and adopted by many wineries throughout Europe.

The process in the cellar

Broadly speaking, the process of carbonic maceration involves filling a tank with whole grapes after saturating the environment with carbon dioxide or other inert gas.

It is then closed, leaving a small vent for gases, for a period of seven to twenty days. The internal temperature is around 30°C.

The grapes, as a result of crushing, begin to ferment naturally. But a different fermentation, called intracellular fermentation, also takes place within the whole berry.

When finished, the entire mass is softly pressed and, after racking, completes fermentation. The wine is bottled and, after resting for a few days, is ready for drinking.

Occupied France 1941

But another story is told, one that demonstrates the enormous skill of French producers when it comes to P.R. on wine.

In occupied Vichy France, it was necessary to sell wine early in order to avoid seizure by German occupation forces.

Indeed, in Vichy-occupied France, it was necessary to sell wine early, very early, in order to avoid its seizure for wartime reasons by the German occupying forces; therefore, any procedure or innovation to accelerate the evolution of must-wine was blessed and above all functional.

In the early days of 1941, when a Whermacht marshal -apparently an excellent wine connoisseur-showed up at the entrance to the winery in Macon (Burgundy), complete with carboys in tow, the madame, not at all intimidated, simply said, wryly, “Rien.”

Pairings and service

In subject wines are dry, fragrant and fruity, with notes of rose, strawberry, cherry and raspberry.

The color is brilliant, with ruby-purple highlights. They generally have a very low level of tannins and a light structure, thanks in part to moderate fixed acidity.

There is no need to decant or uncork the bottle before consumption.

They go very well with white meats, fresh soft cheeses, mushrooms and vegetables, legume soups, and even with autumn roasted chestnuts, cooked over the fire.

Also good to serve as an aperitif at a temperature of 12 to 14°C.

There is no need to decant or uncork the bottle before consumption; a classic Iso glass or a regular small goblet is fine for the glass.

Young wines: a phenomenon in steep decline

A far cry from the big media events of two decades ago: super-reclaimed tastings with mandatory attendance of VIPs, alleged VIPs, star chefs, journalists, and well-known “world beverage” spokesmen.

Phenomenon in decline then and at all precise levels: production, turnover, sales and consumption.

No demand from our customers either regular or passing through. Therefore we no longer keep them. Today the demands are for other types of wine, I mention the Alta Langa classic sparkling wine as a growing trend.

Vincafe’Alba, via Maestra

In the Alba Store supermarket, I arrive at the relevant department. I see excellent brands of new wine, from Piedmont to Sicily, but even here they confirm without hesitation, “It’s selling less.”

On the third Thursday of November, Beaujolais Nouveau also exhibited, but the well-known French wine is also in decline.

In my opinion, the causes of this phenomenon are multifaceted. First and foremost is the wine’s limited time of evolution. It should be drunk at most six months after bottling.

It also affects the trend in drinking habits, especially among young people, who are often oriented toward other types of wines, if not other drinks.