{"id":900905,"date":"2026-06-30T13:01:37","date_gmt":"2026-06-30T11:01:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/900905\/rare-grape-varieties-alba-surroundings\/"},"modified":"2026-06-30T13:09:18","modified_gmt":"2026-06-30T11:09:18","slug":"rare-grape-varieties-alba-surroundings","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/900905\/rare-grape-varieties-alba-surroundings\/","title":{"rendered":"Rare grape varieties of the Alba area and surroundings"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>The viticultural heritage of our country was <strong>enormous<\/strong> in the past. In Italy, in the mid-19th century, there were over <strong>4,000 <\/strong><a href=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/magazine-en\/wines-vines\/\" id=\"739\">grape varieties<\/a> in the vineyards; today about <strong>450<\/strong> remain. <\/p>\n\n<p>Thanks to <strong>maritime trade<\/strong>, numerous <strong>vine varieties<\/strong> from different areas of the Mediterranean were introduced to our territory as early as the 8th century BC. Most of them have become extinct. <\/p>\n\n<p>Here are some, all very <strong>rare<\/strong>, that deserve to be remembered.<\/p>\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Gamba di pernice<\/h3>\n\n<p>It was a <strong>delicious grape<\/strong>, sweet, aromatic, and above all, had a thick skin. Among my childhood memories, the figure of <strong>my father<\/strong> emerges who, returning home from the Moscato harvest in Santo Stefano Belbo, would immediately show a <strong>small basket of grapes<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n<p>He called it <strong>gamba di pernice<\/strong> (partridge leg).<\/p>\n\n<blockquote class=\"quote quote--pull-right quote--is-small typography__quote\">\n<p>Years ago, some winegrowers from Calosso decided to bring this interesting variety back into cultivation, saving it from extinction.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n<p>Unfortunately, <strong>this grape was disappearing<\/strong> between Langhe and Monferrato. Only a few vines survived in old vineyards. Years ago, some winegrowers from Calosso decided to <strong>bring this interesting variety back into cultivation<\/strong>, effectively <strong>saving it<\/strong> <strong>from extinction<\/strong>.  <\/p>\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-landscape-lg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1400\" height=\"875\" src=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/terroir_mango_--1400x875.jpg\" alt=\"A Gamba di Pernice vineyard\" class=\"wp-image-900875\" srcset=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/terroir_mango_--1400x875.jpg 1400w, https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/terroir_mango_--900x563.jpg 900w, https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/terroir_mango_--550x344.jpg 550w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">A Gamba di Pernice vineyard<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n<p>The name comes from the fact that the <strong>stalk tends to turn red during the summer<\/strong>, taking on a color similar to a partridge&#8217;s legs.<\/p>\n\n<p>Mentioned by the historian <strong>Nuvolone<\/strong>, it was widespread in past centuries in various areas of the Saluzzo and Pinerolo regions, but also between Alessandria and Casale. Thanks to its particular flavor, it was mainly used as a <strong>table grape<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n<p>Gamba di Pernice has a <strong>medium-sized cluster<\/strong>, pyramid-shaped and rather compact, with a purplish-red peduncle and spherical blue-black berries characterized by a thick skin.<\/p>\n\n<blockquote class=\"quote quote--pull-left quote--is-small typography__quote\">\n<p>The <strong>wine <\/strong>obtained has a light ruby color and very <strong>intense <\/strong> and persistent <strong>aromas<\/strong>, in which <strong>sweet and spicy notes<\/strong> are found.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n<p>The <strong>wine <\/strong>obtained has a light ruby color and very <strong>intense <\/strong> and persistent <strong>aromas<\/strong>, in which <strong>sweet and spicy notes<\/strong> are found. On the palate, it is <strong>soft<\/strong>, medium-bodied, and with <strong>moderate tannins<\/strong>. It also lends itself to moderate aging in wood.  <\/p>\n\n<p>With a decree dated <strong>September 27, 2011<\/strong>, the wine obtained from this grape acquired DOC status under the names <strong>Calosso<\/strong> and <strong>Calosso Passar\u00e0<\/strong>. The denomination covers the municipalities of <strong>Calosso<\/strong>, <strong>Castagnole delle Lanze<\/strong>, and <a href=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/city\/costigliole-dasti-piedmont\/\" id=\"256\">Costigliole d&#8217;Asti<\/a>. Currently, the vineyard area is about <strong>5 hectares<\/strong>.  <\/p>\n\n<p>Gamba di Pernice should be served in <strong>ISO glasses<\/strong> or tulip glasses and pairs excellently with <strong>cured meats, meats, and medium-aged cheeses<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Liseriet<\/h3>\n\n<p>The first person to tell me about it was Professor <strong>Roberto Macaluso<\/strong>, my viticulture teacher at the Enological School of Alba.<\/p>\n\n<p>Later, when I began to take an interest in the story linked to the pollution of the <strong>Acna<\/strong> and Re Sole, I remember well that some elderly winegrowers often mentioned <strong>white liseriet<\/strong> in their sad tales.<\/p>\n\n<blockquote class=\"quote quote--pull-right quote--is-small typography__quote\">\n<p>Viticulture in the Val Bormida was of an excellent level, but it was brought to its knees by the waste discharged into the Bormida by the Cengio factory.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n<p>As is well known, viticulture in the <strong>Val Bormida<\/strong> was of an excellent level, but it was brought to its knees by the <strong>waste discharged into the Bormida<\/strong> by the Cengio factory. In fact, all, or almost all, the <strong>vineyards<\/strong> <strong>disappeared<\/strong>; only a few liseriet vines remained here and there. <\/p>\n\n<p>These are the characteristics of the vine and the grape: medium leaves, <strong>medium and cylindrical cluster<\/strong>, spherical berry that is not very large. It flowers and <strong>ripens early<\/strong>, around the first days of September, and was often used as a <strong>table grape<\/strong> as well. <\/p>\n\n<p>The wine obtained has <strong>excellent tartaric acidity<\/strong> and medium-intense aromas with fruity notes. Precisely this ability to always maintain <strong>good fixed acidity<\/strong> was considered by some enologists in the 1980s to improve <strong>Moscato d\u2019Asti<\/strong>, which showed a lack of acidity, especially in certain vintages and areas. <\/p>\n\n<p>The <strong>idea, however, was not pursued<\/strong>: technical issues aside, it would have been necessary to modify the production regulations. Today, liseriet returns in some discussions or on the sidelines of technical conferences. <\/p>\n\n<p>If in the rebirth programs of the <strong>Val Bormida<\/strong>, now finally clean, a new viticulture finds the space it deserves, who knows if between Castino and Gorzegno liseriet might return to occupy those <strong>wonderful terraces<\/strong> it inhabited for over two millennia.<\/p>\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Nascetta<\/h3>\n\n<p>Continuing our journey through rare and little-known grape varieties, we encounter <strong>nascetta<\/strong>. Almost disappeared twenty years ago, today it has found a precise place among the <strong>Piedmontese DOCs<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n<p>Thanks to the passionate research of Professor <strong>Carlo Arnulfo<\/strong>, enology teacher at the Enological School of Alba, Professor <strong>Anna Schneider<\/strong>, and collaborators from the Center for Genetic Improvement of the Vine at the University of Turin, Nascetta was registered a few years ago in the National Catalog of Vine Varieties.<\/p>\n\n<blockquote class=\"quote quote--pull-left quote--is-small typography__quote\">\n<p>Nascetta is an ancient grape variety, cultivated for a very long time, especially in the Novello area and neighboring municipalities.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n<p>Nascetta is an ancient grape variety, cultivated for a very long time, especially in the <a href=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/city\/novello-piedmont\/\" id=\"243\">Novello<\/a> area and neighboring municipalities. Rovasenda, in the important <em>Ampelografia universale<\/em> of 1877, considers it a &#8220;very delicate grape and exquisite wine,&#8221; while in 1895 the illustrious Fantini describes <strong>Nascetta wine <\/strong>as having &#8220;a finesse equal to Moscato.&#8221; <\/p>\n\n<p>Genetic and biological studies of the vine indicate Nascetta as an <strong>indigenous variety of the Novello hills<\/strong>, in the Piedmontese Langhe.<\/p>\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-landscape-md\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"900\" height=\"563\" src=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/resized_20180915_Nas-cetta-Pasinotti-2018-e1537165218129-900x563.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-900867\" srcset=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/resized_20180915_Nas-cetta-Pasinotti-2018-e1537165218129-900x563.jpg 900w, https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/resized_20180915_Nas-cetta-Pasinotti-2018-e1537165218129-550x344.jpg 550w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">A cluster of Nascetta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n<p>The grape has a fairly <strong>large and compact<\/strong> <strong>cluster<\/strong>, with white berries. The berry, of medium size, is spherical. The <a href=\"https:\/\/shop.langhe.net\/prodotto\/langhe-nascetta-doc-albori-alessandro-rivetto\/\">wine obtained<\/a> is <strong>straw yellow with greenish reflections<\/strong> and is very fragrant, also thanks to the presence of linalool.  <\/p>\n\n<p>But let&#8217;s hear from a <strong>producer <\/strong>in the area who <strong>believed in this variety<\/strong>:  <\/p>\n\n<blockquote class=\"quote quote--is-long accent-none\">\n<p>About six years ago, we planted Nascetta rootlings in the Loirano area. We vinify Nascetta with cold cryomaceration for about 12 hours and bottle the wine the following summer. We market it mainly on foreign markets.  <\/p>\n<cite class=\"quote__author uppercase--md\">Azienda Agricola Rivetto<\/cite><span class=\"quote__book serif--sm\">Sinio<\/span><\/blockquote>\n\n<p>Among the wineries in Novello that have believed in this wine, we also mention the <a href=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/business\/le-strette\/\">Azienda Agricola Le Strette<\/a> of the brothers <strong>Daniele<\/strong>, <strong>Mauro <\/strong>and <strong>Savio<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n<p>In Piedmont, there are two DOCs referring to the Nascetta variety: <strong>Langhe Nascetta<\/strong> and <strong>Langhe Nascetta del Comune di Novello<\/strong>. The total area is <strong>7.92 hectares<\/strong>, for a production of about <strong>54,000 bottles<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Curiosities<\/h2>\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The Baco grape<\/h3>\n\n<p>We end this series of articles on rare or extinct grape varieties with the <strong>Baco grape<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n<p>The name means little to young winegrowers, but if you talk to elders from Langa or Monferrato, they will certainly remember a <strong>rather modest quality of grape<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n<p>With a peculiarity: it was part of the so-called <em>Direct Producer Hybrids<\/em>, grape varieties obtained from the <strong>cross between European vines<\/strong> and <strong>American vines<\/strong> and widespread in Europe after the phylloxera crisis. <\/p>\n\n<p>The <strong>phylloxera <\/strong>was fought mainly by grafting European varieties onto resistant American rootstocks, but in those years these hybrids also spread, appreciated because they could produce grapes without the need for grafting.<\/p>\n\n<p><strong>Grafting onto resistant roots<\/strong> of <strong>American vines<\/strong> allowed the parasite to be eradicated, but it required grafting European rootlings. Therefore, grape varieties obtained by hybridization between European and American vines were spread. <\/p>\n\n<p>The advantages were significant: <strong>no treatments <\/strong>based on sulfur or copper sulfate and no use of rootstocks.<\/p>\n\n<p>The best known of these varieties was certainly <strong>Isabella<\/strong>, commonly called <strong>strawberry grape<\/strong>. We also remember <strong>Clinton<\/strong>. Even today, there are pergolas or rare rows; of Baco, however, almost all trace has been lost.  <\/p>\n\n<blockquote class=\"quote quote--pull-right quote--is-small typography__quote\">\n<p>The quality of the grape was certainly not fabulous, despite what the commercial catalogs promised.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n<p>The <strong>quality of the grape was certainly not fabulous<\/strong>, despite what the commercial catalogs promised: medium cluster, fairly compact, medium-small berry, not very thick skin, and a not very intense black-violet color.<\/p>\n\n<p>It was used for <strong>direct consumption<\/strong>, but also to produce <strong>wine for family use<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n<p>Between <strong>1930 and 1935<\/strong> it was very widespread, thanks also to a strange character who took the name of the grape. They nicknamed him <strong>Baco<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n<p>Was he a <strong>smart guy<\/strong>? Was he a <strong>con artist<\/strong>? Or just a <strong>nurseryman<\/strong>?  <\/p>\n\n<p>In the 1930s, regarding the purchase of so-called American vines, two problems arose: <strong>where to find them<\/strong> and <strong>how to graft them<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n<p>In both cases, there were problems. Alongside very serious nurserymen, who guaranteed the rootlings for origin and rooting, there were also some tricksters who carried out <strong>genuine scams<\/strong>. The best of them all called himself Baco.  <\/p>\n\n<p>He went around in a <strong>black three-speed Balilla<\/strong>, complete with a driver and a trunk always full of American vines. He sold many of them, but it was a scam: in <strong>1937<\/strong> the Enological School of Alba intervened to make him stop. <\/p>\n\n<p>The principal, Professor <strong>Tommaso Ferraris<\/strong>, said he would report him, because the grapes obtained were worth nothing at all and were useless for wine.<\/p>\n\n<blockquote class=\"quote quote--pull-left quote--is-small typography__quote\">\n<p>Baco died in Bra after the war. Even today, there is still some fondness for this undoubtedly original figure. <\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n<p>Baco <strong>died in Bra after the war<\/strong>. Even today, there is still some fondness for this undoubtedly original figure, about whom, as a winegrower from Perno said years ago, &#8220;one could easily write a book.&#8221; <\/p>\n\n<p>The sale of American vines \u2014 or rather the direct producer hybrid <strong>Riparia Vinifera catalog number 24<\/strong>, obtained in France \u2014 did not bring much luck to Baco. He was only left with the nickname of the French nurseryman. <\/p>\n\n<p>His grape has also disappeared: <strong>a few pergolas<\/strong> could still be found in the <strong>villa gardens<\/strong> on the Alba hill until the 1950s.<\/p>\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-landscape-lg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1400\" height=\"875\" src=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/dogliani_ll-1400x875.jpg\" alt=\"The Rea stream, in Dogliani\" class=\"wp-image-900891\" srcset=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/dogliani_ll-1400x875.jpg 1400w, https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/dogliani_ll-900x563.jpg 900w, https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/dogliani_ll-550x344.jpg 550w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The Rea stream, in Dogliani<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n<p>But hunters who still frequent the <strong>banks of the Rea stream<\/strong>, in <a href=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/city\/dogliani-piedmont\/\" id=\"232\">Dogliani<\/a>, find a house with the still clearly legible writing: &#8220;<strong>American vines<\/strong>.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n<p>In the surroundings, everything is <strong>uncultivated land<\/strong>; here and there a few vines remain, choked by weeds. Hidden there are also <strong>small clusters<\/strong> with black berries, as small as pellets for hares. <strong>It is Baco&#8217;s grape<\/strong>. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The viticultural heritage of our country was enormous in the past. In Italy, in the mid-19th century, there were over 4,000 grape varieties in the vineyards; today about 450 remain. Thanks to maritime trade, numerous vine varieties from different areas of the Mediterranean were introduced to our territory as early as the 8th century BC. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":54,"featured_media":900873,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1567],"tags":[],"lgarea":[13],"class_list":["post-900905","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-eat-drink","lgarea-lower-langa"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Rare Grape Varieties of Piedmont: Gamba di Pernice, Liseriet, and Nascetta<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"A journey to discover ancient Piedmontese varieties that risked disappearing and today represent a heritage to be protected.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" 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