{"id":287673,"date":"2025-07-18T21:44:58","date_gmt":"2025-07-18T19:44:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/287673\/interview-gianfranco-torelli-first-certified-organic-wine-italy\/"},"modified":"2025-07-25T10:42:44","modified_gmt":"2025-07-25T08:42:44","slug":"interview-gianfranco-torelli-first-certified-organic-wine-italy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/287673\/interview-gianfranco-torelli-first-certified-organic-wine-italy\/","title":{"rendered":"Interview with Gianfranco Torelli: the First Italian Organic Wine"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Today we have the pleasure of meeting Gianfranco Torelli<\/strong>, a leading figure in the world of organic and sustainable viticulture. <\/p>\n\n

Her company<\/a> boasts a historic record: it was the first in Italy to obtain, in January 1993, the organic certification T000001<\/strong> for the Moscato d \u201cAsti\u201d<\/a> 1992, the first organic wine produced from grapes cultivated according to the principles of organic farming<\/p>\n\n

With years of field experience and a deep passion for his work, Gianfranco has significantly contributed to the spread of environmentally friendly farming practices<\/strong>, helping numerous wineries<\/a> embark on the path of organic production.<\/p>\n\n

During this chat, in which he certainly didn’t hold back, Gianfranco tells us about the challenges<\/strong> faced, the satisfactions<\/strong> gained, and his commitment<\/strong> to the territory of Bubbio<\/a>, also offering a look at the future prospects of viticulture that is increasingly attentive to environmental balance and sustainability.<\/p>\n\n

When did your sensitivity towards organic farming and environmental issues begin?<\/h4>\n\n

Gianfranco<\/span> \u2014 My attention to the environment began well before I started producing wine. I was about 17 or 18 when I joined the Valle Bormida Pulita<\/strong> association, an environmental movement that fought for the closure of Acna,<\/strong> a chemical dye factory in Cengio. That battle, in the ’90s, really managed to unite everyone: adults, children, politicians, mayors of all orientations. And it led, in the end, to the closure of the plant and the start of the clean-up. <\/p>\n\n

Experiencing a strong collective commitment to protecting the territory<\/strong> has deeply marked me. It was natural for me and my father to start questioning some widespread agricultural practices of the time, carried out without considering the environmental impact. <\/p>\n\n

\"Good
Vineyard work is done manually<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

In the ’80s, moreover, the concept of sustainability<\/strong> had not yet entered the agricultural debate, and talking about organic farming<\/strong> seemed almost out of place. That’s precisely why we felt the need to change course<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n

How did the journey that led you to receive certification for the first organic wine produced in Italy unfold?<\/h4>\n\n

Gianfranco<\/span> \u2014 In 1987, together with my father, we decided to embark on the path of organic agriculture<\/strong> in our vineyards. At that time, there was still no official regulation: there were only some pioneering movements<\/strong> that were laying the foundations for what would later become the European regulation. <\/p>\n\n

We started informally<\/strong>, with self-certification and \u201cadherence to the Piedmont-Liguria Consortium for organic agriculture. It was only in 1991<\/strong> that the EEC regulation<\/strong> finally arrived, establishing norms for viticulture as well. There was still no talk of organic wine in the strict sense, but of wine obtained from grapes grown using organic methods<\/strong>. It was far from\u201d a simple transition, also hindered by resistance from some industry lobbies. <\/p>\n\n

In 1992, the first registrations in the European system began, and in January 1993, we obtained the T000001 certification for our Moscato d’Asti DOCG San Gr\u00f2d<\/strong>, recognized as the first certified Italian wine<\/strong> produced from grapes cultivated according to the principles of organic agriculture<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n

What are the steps that lead to organic conversion?<\/h4>\n\n

Gianfranco<\/span> \u2014 The conversion to organic is a process that involves both agronomic<\/strong> and regulatory<\/strong> aspects. From a technical point of view, many of the chemical molecules used in conventional viticulture remain active in the plant for years: this is why at least three seasons<\/strong> are necessary before a vineyard can truly be called organic. <\/p>\n\n

In parallel, the regulations also provide for a transition period<\/strong> of three years, during which the company is required to apply the principles and practices of organic agriculture, while not yet being able to certify its products as such.<\/p>\n\n

What has been the impact of organic farming on viticulture in general?<\/h4>\n\n

Gianfranco<\/span> \u2014 Organic agriculture has had a positive impact on the entire agricultural sector<\/strong>, stimulating innovation even in the field of plant protection products. It has indeed pushed the industry to develop new sustainable solutions, such as resistance inducers<\/strong>, substances that strengthen the plant’s natural defenses instead of acting directly on pathogens. <\/p>\n\n

\"Recreational
Environmental awareness especially for children<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Today, it’s undeniable that the world of organic farming represents a valuable stimulus for viticulture<\/strong> as a whole, not only for organic wine producers but also for those who adopt more environmentally conscious conventional practices.<\/p>\n\n

Bubbio is the town of firsts: first organic wine, but also the first anti-gmo municipality in Italy.<\/h4>\n\n

Gianfranco<\/span> \u2014 In 1999, our municipality, Bubbio<\/strong>, was the first in Italy to declare itself officially anti-GMO<\/strong>, thanks to a resolution that I personally promoted in my role as deputy mayor. This choice, of great importance, started a movement that today counts over 1,800 administrations<\/strong> across the country. <\/p>\n\n

It was a strong and significant message: if it had remained confined to Bubbio, it would have had no effect. Instead, it was extended to provinces<\/strong>, some regions<\/strong>, and mountain communities<\/strong>, forcing politics to take it seriously. <\/p>\n\n

How do you see the future of organic farming in the face of a market that seems to demand large-scale production?<\/h4>\n\n

Gianfranco<\/span> \u2014 Today, one of the main problems is wine overproduction<\/strong>. So I wonder what sense it makes to continue with traditional agriculture that aims only at maximum yield<\/strong>, often at the expense of the environment<\/strong>, if the market doesn’t absorb that surplus. Especially in a sector like wine, where the real goal should be the balance of the plant<\/strong>, because that’s where quality is born. <\/p>\n\n

For this reason, organic farming, for me, represents today the most coherent choice<\/strong> for a conscious<\/strong> and responsible approach<\/strong>, especially in a sector like viticulture, which has a direct impact on the environment.<\/p>\n\n

That said, I believe that organic agriculture is not the only valid and intelligent way to approach viticulture. You can practice good viticulture by doing, for example, intelligent integrated pest management<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n

What, in your opinion, are the fundamental principles on which agriculture should be based today?<\/h4>\n\n

Gianfranco<\/span> \u2014 I believe that agriculture should be based on four fundamental pillars: product quality<\/strong>, connection with the territory<\/strong>, environmental sustainability<\/strong> (essential, which concerns all companies regardless of the agricultural method adopted), and finally social sustainability<\/strong>, which also involves respecting labor contracts and the rights of those working in this sector.<\/p>\n\n

What agronomic or oenological practices do you use to preserve the natural quality of wine?<\/h4>\n\n

Gianfranco<\/span> \u2014 From an oenological point of view, I adopt all the good practices of traditional winemaking<\/strong> also followed by colleagues who produce excellent non-organic wine. My approach is based on technical expertise<\/strong>, without extremism. <\/p>\n\n

In recent years, I’ve been focusing my efforts on strengthening vines naturally<\/strong> and therefore on the balance of the plant<\/strong>. The goal is to obtain more resistant and energetically ready vines that require fewer interventions and treatments, in a long-term sustainability perspective. <\/p>\n\n

\"In
Torelli: winemakers for four generations<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

We follow a precise protocol that uses natural products such as seaweed<\/strong>, microelements capable of stimulating the plant’s internal defenses, and beneficial bacilli that colonize parasites. It’s a preventive strategy<\/strong> with minimal environmental impact, which fully reflects the principles of sustainable agriculture. <\/p>\n\n

What advice would you give to a young winemaker who wants to embark on the path of organic farming?<\/h4>\n\n

Gianfranco<\/span> \u2014 Viticulture can offer many satisfactions<\/strong>: seeing the wine made by you and your family appreciated all over the world is a great joy.<\/p>\n\n

If our young winemaker has already gained experience, I would invite them to reflect on environmental sustainability<\/strong>. It’s not necessary to be organic to practice good agriculture, but adopting a sustainable and courageous approach<\/strong> over time brings many satisfactions. <\/p>\n\n

After so many years of work and recognition, what still excites you about your job?<\/h4>\n\n

Gianfranco<\/span> \u2014 I’ll answer by reflecting on the 2024 vintage<\/strong>, which was a truly difficult season. We were hoping for a rainy winter, which didn’t come, while in spring we had incessant rain. <\/p>\n\n

For some time now, I’ve been offering agronomic consultations<\/strong> to bring local companies closer to organic viticulture. Over the years, I’ve followed the conversion of five companies in Bubbio, now certified organic. Additionally, I support other realities that, while not organic, closely follow my advice. Together, in September, we managed to bring home a healthy harvest<\/strong> with a good quantity of grapes. <\/p>\n\n

This experience confirmed to me that working on the balance of the plants<\/strong> using appropriate products has allowed the vines to stay healthy. Thanks to the interventions allowed in organic agriculture, we managed to achieve a truly satisfying harvest<\/strong>. This really moved me and was a source of great satisfaction. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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