{"id":234503,"date":"2023-07-28T11:52:08","date_gmt":"2023-07-28T09:52:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/234503\/summer-langhe-history-food\/"},"modified":"2023-07-28T12:08:11","modified_gmt":"2023-07-28T10:08:11","slug":"summer-langhe-history-food","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/234503\/summer-langhe-history-food\/","title":{"rendered":"Summer in the Langhe: history of food in rural resilience"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>The workers in the Langa hills knew well that<strong> summer would arrive before<\/strong> the date predicted by the calendar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Spring was in its twilight years, and already people were sweating in the fields and vineyards, amidst the <strong>flocks of gnats<\/strong> and the <strong>racing of lizards<\/strong>; in the evenings they began to rejoice in the coolness with the background of the <strong>first songs of crickets and nightingales<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Heralding the arrival of the warm season, the scent of <strong>flowering elderberry<\/strong> joined the vinegar and sage of <a href=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/recipes\/saused-zucchinis\/\">soused zucchini<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It was no time for set tables, which would not return until late fall, and which now gave way to <strong>straw hat<\/strong> and<strong> verdigris<\/strong>, to work in the fields that lasted the day and night and did not allow people to <strong>sit down to eat<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>The women also contributed<\/strong>, and forgot about cooking for a few months, but it was in those dry and harsh fields that some of the most iconic <strong>Langa traditions<\/strong> were born, in meals eaten quickly <strong>in the shade of the walnut tree<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter wp-image-182752 size-landscape-lg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1400\" height=\"875\" src=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123656-1400x875.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-182752\" srcset=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123656-1400x875.jpg 1400w, https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123656-900x563.jpg 900w, https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123656-550x344.jpg 550w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Photo credits &#8211; Gian Paolo Cavallero<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The wheat season<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>It is the beginning of the wheat season, still <strong>green in the Alta Langa<\/strong>, but on the plains already ready for harvest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It is picked up manually to<strong> take to the mill<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"quote quote--is-big accent\"><p>D\u00e0 camin ai p\u00ebrzon\u00e8<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p>say the village elders, &#8220;<strong>let&#8217;s free the prisoners<\/strong>&#8220;, meaning the grains that will soon become flour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Fields on the plains are the least well-liked by those who come down with scythes, because they are far from the <strong>tastes<\/strong> and <strong>cares of home<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Breakfast here is <strong>wine soup<\/strong>, made from a fizzy waste that quenches <strong>the thirst<\/strong> for hours. When it goes well, the women then go down to the valley with some <strong>bread and soup<\/strong>, to be eaten in a hurry, under the critical eyes of the<strong> master<\/strong> who wants to continue working.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Once the <strong>fields in the hills are ripe<\/strong>, it&#8217;s back to eating properly, with an energetic <strong>morning snack<\/strong> to endure the day&#8217;s toil: <strong>eggs and sugar<\/strong> beaten into a glass of wine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At lunchtime comes the <strong>soup<\/strong>, with the <strong>traditional grandmothers&#8217; recipe<\/strong>: leek, hops, wild thistle and sprouts of the last poppies, white beans, zucchini, carrots, and potatoes. All left overnight on the fire and finally seasoned with lard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Between spoonfuls of<strong> wine<\/strong>, kept cool in the well inside a bucket to increase its <strong>thirst-quenching power<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter wp-image-182754 size-landscape-lg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1400\" height=\"875\" src=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123808-1400x875.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-182754\" srcset=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123808-1400x875.jpg 1400w, https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123808-900x563.jpg 900w, https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123808-550x344.jpg 550w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Photo credits &#8211; Gian Paolo Cavallero<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Bare tables, grandmothers in the kitchen<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Fortunately, there are<strong> grandmothers<\/strong> to keep the house running and <strong>cook for everyone<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Fireflies <\/strong>now fill the summer sky of Langa, and to reward themselves after a hard day&#8217;s work, waiting in the cool of the evening are the <strong>carp eel<\/strong>, caught fresh in the Tanaro River, the <strong>rice with leek<\/strong> reached the peak of sweetness, the egg<strong> in sauces<\/strong> red and green and the <a href=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/recipes\/omelette-with-saint-peters-herb\/\">omelettes with wild herbs<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Finally, the long-awaited <strong>peach pie<\/strong> with amaretto, rum and chocolate powder returns.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Once the harvest is over, in which the whole village helps each other, and once <strong>the threshing floor is filled with sheaves<\/strong>, we celebrate together on the <strong>hemp tablecloth<\/strong>, with recipes from the hostess.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>On the wagon used as a table come <strong>peperonata<\/strong>, salami, and the<strong> now-ripened<\/strong> <a href=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/1394\/the-robiola-di-roccaverano\/\">robiola cheese<\/a>. If the harvest was good, we are rewarded with <strong>ravioli and polenta<\/strong>, to the tune of a few forgotten <strong>harmonicas<\/strong> and cheerful Piedmontese songs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter wp-image-182758 size-landscape-lg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1400\" height=\"875\" src=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123749-1400x875.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-182758\" srcset=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123749-1400x875.jpg 1400w, https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123749-900x563.jpg 900w, https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123749-550x344.jpg 550w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Photo credits &#8211; Gian Paolo Cavallero<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Songs and saltiness<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The freshest taste of summer in the Langa is garden vegetables in a <a href=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/recipes\/oil-seasoning\/\">dip of oil and salt<\/a>, or<\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"quote quote--is-big accent\"><p>drinta a o tasson con l&#8217;euli e la sal<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p>The oil comes from neighboring <strong>Liguria<\/strong>, poor in flour and wine, which through the ancient <strong>salt route<\/strong> transports it <strong>in exchange for<\/strong> our qualities.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The olive tree from here is planted in the warmer hills and used as a <strong>symbol of peace on Palm Sunday<\/strong>, but although there are productive ones it rarely turns into oil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It is the<em>&#8220;oli\u00e9<\/em>&#8221; who transport it through the Monregalese, on the<strong> back of a mule<\/strong> inside goatskin ghirbe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>They <strong>go from farmstead to farmstead<\/strong> selling it along with the catch, capers, and mayonnaise, because the women in the countryside prefer to <strong>buy it in the courtyard<\/strong> rather than dress up to go to <strong>the village<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Hence, other dishes of the season: <strong>cod<\/strong> in green or with onion, <strong>herring roasted<\/strong> on &#8220;putag\u00e9&#8221; (the typical stove), sardine or tuna pudding, and of course, <a href=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/recipes\/anchovies\/\">anchovy<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter wp-image-182760 size-landscape-lg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1400\" height=\"875\" src=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123902-1400x875.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-182760\" srcset=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123902-1400x875.jpg 1400w, https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123902-900x563.jpg 900w, https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123902-550x344.jpg 550w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Photo credits &#8211; Gian Paolo Cavallero<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The pajarin, gentlemen of the straw<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The <em>pajarin<\/em> arrive along with the first steam engines, the<em>&#8220;m\u00e0china a feu<\/em>&#8221; to beat the grain, and they take away so much of the toil of manual labor, but also the <strong>hearts of village women<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>They are <strong>gallant and full of charm<\/strong>, but for them, the wheat season is synonymous with<strong> toil<\/strong> and danger: they have to run, sleep a <strong>few hours a night<\/strong> on burlap sacks, and always be alert and focused because the machine <strong>saves time<\/strong> but is capable of <strong>playing tricks<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For them, too, summer means fasting, at least until the <strong>feast of Ferragosto<\/strong>, when the last sacks are closed and they finally <strong>celebrate<\/strong> with a big table spread.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The <strong>women cook in celebration<\/strong>, and the best roosters are sacrificed: tables are set <strong>in the courtyard<\/strong>, and on the table come sardines, <a href=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/recipes\/vitel-tonne-2\/\">veal tonnato<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/recipes\/onion-omelette\/\">onion omelet<\/a>, salad boiled rooster, and fried rabbit cutlets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong> Rooster broth<\/strong> sees all parts of the bird, with livers, hearts, wattles, crests, and eggs. The last two together in the dish <strong>stand for good luck in love<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter wp-image-182762 size-landscape-lg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1400\" height=\"875\" src=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123949-1400x875.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-182762\" srcset=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123949-1400x875.jpg 1400w, https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123949-900x563.jpg 900w, https:\/\/langhe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/resized_20190715_123949-550x344.jpg 550w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Photo credits &#8211; Gian Paolo Cavallero<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Ballroom dancing, gambling and table setting<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The end of work means a <strong>period of rest<\/strong> before renewed labors in the fall, and sees tablecloths filled with dishes almost forgotten during<strong> hunger in the fields<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Returning to the plates are the <strong>imperial crabs<\/strong> caught under the pebbles of the Belbo River, <strong>snails<\/strong> in risotto, al verde or in omelets along with <strong>ribs<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It is time again for <strong>ravioli in wine<\/strong>, for tajarin that take on different flavors in different valleys: rosemary and cinnamon in <a href=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/town\/treiso-piedmont\/\">Treiso<\/a>&#8216;s dough, onion and basil in <a href=\"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/town\/cortemilia-piedmont\/\">Cortemilia<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It&#8217;s back to the square with <strong>ballroom dancing<\/strong>, card games and a <strong>raffle<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The cellar is now full of<em>&#8220;born\u00ece<\/em>&#8221; of fruits and vegetables, and on free afternoons we hurry to produce, with the last tomatoes, the preserve that will have to last all winter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Sources<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><em>Sapori di Langa<\/em>, Gigi Marsico<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The valuable contribution of two ladies who asked to remain anonymous :-)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The workers in the Langa hills knew well that summer would arrive before the date predicted by the calendar. Spring was in its twilight years, and already people were sweating in the fields and vineyards, amidst the flocks of gnats and the racing of lizards; in the evenings they began to rejoice in the coolness [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13726,"featured_media":234505,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1567],"tags":[],"lgarea":[],"class_list":["post-234503","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-eat-drink"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Summer in the Langhe: history of food in rural resilience<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The workers in the Langa hills knew well that summer would arrive before the date predicted by the calendar. 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