{"id":227785,"date":"2023-03-31T16:07:12","date_gmt":"2023-03-31T14:07:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/?p=227785"},"modified":"2023-03-31T16:07:32","modified_gmt":"2023-03-31T14:07:32","slug":"spring-langhe-history-food-peasant-resilience","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/227785\/spring-langhe-history-food-peasant-resilience\/","title":{"rendered":"Spring in Langhe: the History of Food in Peasant Resilience"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

We are used to thinking of spring as an explosion of nature<\/strong>, a time of sunshine<\/strong> and crisp air, full of promise and earthly happiness. Yet, from a strictly rural point of view, spring is a time of sowing, rather than harvesting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Once upon a time, when snow still covered the hills of the Langhe<\/a> from November to March, spring coincided with the great work of the land<\/strong>: a period of enormous toil after the winter rest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

March was a month of promise: the pruning of the vines<\/strong> was finished and the fields were tilled for sowing<\/strong>. Very important was fertilisation with manure<\/strong>, whose very etymology (from the Latin laetus) indicates both \u00abrejoicing\u00bb and \u00abbeing fertile\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Uomo<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

During spring, the foundations were laid for the summer and autumn harvests<\/strong>, those of true peasant abundance, creating the stocks to “survive” until nature’s subsequent rebirth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Like every season, however, spring also has its fruits<\/strong>. Less exuberant than the June or September harvests, but typical of nature’s rebirth<\/strong>, characterized by freshness <\/strong>and joviality<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Asparagus (sparz)<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Asparagus is an ancient plant<\/strong>, the first traces of which have even been found in Mesopotamia. Asparag, in Iranian<\/strong>, means sprout<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Asparagi\"
Asparagi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Widespread throughout the Mediterranean basin, in the southern hills of Piedmont it has found a particular vocation<\/strong>. Especially in the hills of the Roero<\/a>, on the left bank of the Tanaro river, where the sandy soils<\/strong> enhance its aromas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Asparagus was grown in all family vegetable gardens<\/strong> and was one of the first vegetables to be harvested <\/strong>between March and April. The most classic recipes saw them boiled with butter<\/a>, in omelettes, or combined with fresh chopped tuma in salads.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Like every season, spring also has its fruits. Less exuberant than the June harvests or the September vintages, but typical of nature’s rebirth, characterised by freshness and joviality.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Livertin<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Mistakenly called \u00abwild asparagus\u00bb, the livertin is the sprout of the hop<\/strong>, whose elongated shape resembles a thin asparagus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the Langhe, it grew almost everywhere: clinging to fences, among brambles<\/strong>, hanging from tree trunks<\/strong>. It was once a tradition to go out along the Tanaro river<\/strong> with large wicker baskets and combine the harvesting of livertin with that of dandelion to create tasty omelettes<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Livertin\"
Livertin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Today, it is much more difficult to find livertin in nature. Perhaps this is why it has become a “cult” ingredient<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Michelin-starred chefs<\/strong> have elected it as an icon of foraging (the trend in contemporary cuisine to use spontaneous, wild-gathered ingredients), an ambassador of very rich poor traditions<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nettles and Ricotta Cheese (urtija e seirass)<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Spring, in the Langhe, meant wild herbs<\/a>. Since the kitchen garden was still bare, it was natural to turn to Mother Nature<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Women and children gathered mallow<\/strong>, dandelion<\/strong>, wild chicory<\/strong>, rosolaccio, borage, purslane.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Zuppa
Nettle Soup<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Young, tender nettles <\/strong>were especially sought after for cooking soups<\/strong>, especially fritters to be accompanied with cow or sheep’s ricotta cheese.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ricotta <\/strong>also brought a touch of spring, especially when it was the first “milking of the meadow”, i.e. when the animals could finally go back to grazing on the newly sprouted grass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Capunet<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

With the last winter cabbages<\/strong>, the “cuisinere” of the Langhe (women cooks) made delicious dishes: capunet<\/a>, savoy cabbage rolls<\/strong> with meat, a true anthem against waste.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The tougher leaves of the cabbage were soaked in boiling water<\/strong>, while the leftover meat <\/strong>(veal or pork) formed the filling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Capunet
I Capunet (or pes-coj) – Savoy cabbage rolls<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Potatoes<\/strong>, ricotta<\/strong> or rice<\/strong> could be added<\/strong>, but also just stale bread in milk. The result<\/strong>, although made of poor ingredients, was regal<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Capunets – baked in the oven<\/strong> and arranged in terracotta pans – resembled the finest fish fillets. So much so that, ironically, they were called pes coj<\/strong>, i.e. cabbage-fish<\/strong>: just as tasty, but not as expensive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kid (capret)<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In a time marked by religious festivals<\/strong>, spring meant Easter<\/a>. And Easter meant kid goat<\/a>. Those who did not have it among their animals bought it from the Langa Astigiana<\/a>, where goats were bred for the production of Robiola cheese<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Capretto
Roasted kid<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

But most slaughtered it at home: peasant families often had at least one <\/strong>crava<\/strong> <\/em>(goat) and one sheep, the former for the meat (of the kids) and the latter for the tume<\/em> (cheese produced from its milk).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kid goat was a “sacred” dish<\/strong>: eaten almost exclusively on Resurrection Sunday<\/strong>, it metaphorically embodied Christ’s sacrificial victim<\/strong>, the lamb of innocence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fritto misto alla piemontese (fricass\u00e0 m\u00ebsci\u00e0)<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Although today it is a seasonally adjusted dish<\/strong>, fritto misto<\/a> heralded spring.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The late winter butchering, before and after Lent, allowed the people of the farmstead to enjoy the food of the nobility<\/strong>, meat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Fritto
Fritto Misto alla Piemontese – typical dish made from waste<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

If fillet and capocollo were sold to the butcher, the offal ended up straight in batter<\/strong>, dipped in breadcrumbs and fried in lard<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here is another dish of perfect peasant resilience, made by making the most of waste.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

The original Piedmontese fritto misto included sweetbreads<\/strong>, kidneys<\/strong>, brains<\/strong>, liver <\/strong>and testicles <\/strong>served with black pudding on the feast day after slaughtering.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A dish for strong stomachs<\/strong> which, today, has been softened<\/strong> with more prized cuts of meat, vegetables, sweet semolina, ladyfingers and fruit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Still, it remains one of the great traditions of Piedmontese cuisine<\/a>, so much so that it used to appear as a main dish on wedding<\/strong> and reception menus<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Frogs (rane frite)<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The thaw and spring rains swelled the streams of the Langhe, which, on April nights, croaked again<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The hunt for frogs<\/strong>, which were caught in large numbers and taken to the housewives, was on among the youngsters<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Rane
Fried Frogs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Battered<\/strong> and fried in hot lard<\/strong>, they became one of the tastiest dishes of the season. They were added to mixed fried foods, or supplemented meat-poor diets with their good protein intake.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Spring in the culinary tradition of the Langhe has its roots in our peasantry: discover what our grandparents ate.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":12,"featured_media":227763,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1567],"tags":[],"lgarea":[],"class_list":["post-227785","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-eat-drink"],"yoast_head":"\nSpring in Langhe: the History of Food in Peasant Resilience<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Spring in the culinary tradition of the Langhe has its roots in our peasantry: discover what our grandparents ate.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, 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Parallelamente, porto avanti un progetto chiamato ShareDesk, in cui mi occupo prevalentemente di Marketing e Social Media.","url":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/author\/chickenrun\/"}]}},"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/227785","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/12"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=227785"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/227785\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/227763"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=227785"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=227785"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=227785"},{"taxonomy":"lgarea","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/lgarea?post=227785"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}