{"id":227627,"date":"2022-06-30T10:18:00","date_gmt":"2022-06-30T08:18:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/?p=227627"},"modified":"2023-03-30T10:20:46","modified_gmt":"2023-03-30T08:20:46","slug":"barbecuing-advice-three-langa-chefs-vol-3","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/langhe.net\/en\/227627\/barbecuing-advice-three-langa-chefs-vol-3\/","title":{"rendered":"Barbecuing: Advice From Three Langa Chefs Vol.3"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

The barbecue<\/a> is one of those convivial<\/strong>, sympathetic moments <\/strong>that participate in generating those “summer memories” of lightness, joy, a sense of community and family.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A gastronomic ritual<\/strong> that has its roots in the banquets of Homeric society<\/strong> in which the banquet table was the centre of the social institution<\/strong>, and with which was also associated the meaning of hospitality <\/strong>(\u03be\u03b5\u03bd\u03af\u03b1) and gift<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This has not changed today, as “roasting in company<\/strong>” remains an occasion where hospitality and exchange <\/strong>(I bring the beer, you the wine, I prepare the vegetables, you the meat) is the basis of the event.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A dish that takes its name from the cooking technique<\/strong>, a topic that sooner or later involves most of us and about which, in the end, we all have something to say<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Barbecue among friends<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We have dealt with this topic<\/strong> before, with dedicated articles in which we asked<\/strong> chefs for tips and tricks<\/strong> to help newbies or anyone who wanted to learn more about the subject (links can be found here and here).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Once again this year, we are not shying away from extending a hand<\/strong> to those who will find themselves managing the most important and empowering station of the open-air flame party<\/strong>: that, precisely, of the grill<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We interviewed three chefs: Ivano Bertolotto<\/strong> of Hotel Ristorante I Castelli<\/a> in Alba, Dennis Cesco<\/strong> of Villa d’Amelia<\/a> di Charme Residence in Benevello and Marisa Gallina<\/strong> of Cortiletto d’Alba<\/a> also in Alba.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We asked them four questions and here are the answers<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Happy reading<\/strong> and you’re welcome<\/strong>!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What is the type of meat -and the cut- you prefer to grill?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Ivano, Hotel Ristorante i Castelli<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Tenderloin <\/strong>or rump<\/strong>, is a highly prized cut, tender and tasty, with a large muscle mass and also suitable for low-calorie diets as it is a generally lean type of meat<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The cut is bordered by a modest layer of fat<\/strong>, which, however, is sufficient to guarantee the preservation of flavour <\/strong>and moisture <\/strong>during cooking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dennis, Villa d’Amelia<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

The most suitable cut for me is undoubtedly the sirloin<\/strong>, which is taken from the loin: thanks to the perfect balance<\/strong> between the fatty part <\/strong>(on the outside) and the lean part <\/strong>(on the inside), it is ideal for grilling, which will result soft and appetising.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Rump steak<\/strong><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Marisa, Cortiletto d’Alba<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Rump steak<\/strong>, because if you cook it precisely and quickly (the meat must not stay too long on the grill) it remains very tender<\/strong>; it should also be emphasised that it is a very noble cut.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For grilling we usually talk about pork, and in this case I would recommend capocollo<\/strong>, but I still prefer veal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What tips do you have for preparing and cooking this cut?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Ivano, Hotel Ristorante i Castelli<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

My first suggestion is to take the meat out of the fridge a little earlier<\/strong> and wait for it to reach room temperature before putting it on the grill.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Many people don’t know this, but meat in the fridge contracts<\/strong>, just like living meat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Grilling it in this way locks it in its contracted state, resulting in it being harder than it could have been<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I also recommend massaging it<\/strong> with oil<\/strong> before cooking, and then, after cooking, letting it rest <\/strong>for three to four minutes before cutting and serving.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dennis, Villa d’Amelia<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

I am talking in particular about cooking through the Yakitori grill<\/strong>, which is a Japanese type with a more refined, elegant and smaller wire mesh in which precision is king<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A Yakitori grill model<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I first roast the meat the French way<\/strong>, i.e.: oil smoke point, sear the dish until a nice crust <\/strong>is created that does not allow the liquids to disperse, and once roasted, let it rest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At this stage the liquids all concentrate at the heart, relax and the meat turns red on the inside<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I proceed with the cooking, which depends on the case and the grill in possession I want to give the dish and, to finish it off, I just give it a pass on the Yakitori<\/strong> to give it a smoky touch<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For the cooking, I repeat, it depends on the type of barbecue you have: if you have a Green Egg<\/strong> (a ceramic cooking instrument powered by vegetable charcoal n.d.r.) you can do a longer type of searing<\/strong>, at a constant dilated temperature, while with the Yakitori grill<\/strong> you cannot do such a long searing, but only roast and then pass it over the grill<\/strong>, otherwise you would not obtain uniformity of cooking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Marisa, Cortiletto d’Alba<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

The best advice I can give you would be to marinate <\/strong>the chosen cut of meat with oil and flavours: sage, rosemary, garlic and a dash of white wine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Marinating would be advisable for the whole night<\/strong> before grilling, cleaning off the oil, drying it and finally putting it directly on the grill, taking care not to leave the meat on the barbecue for too long.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A few minutes<\/strong> on one side and a few minutes on the other: what we will have on the outside will be a very tender <\/strong>and very good cut<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Which side dishes and which sauces to combine with the dishes you have suggested?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Ivano, Hotel Ristorante i Castelli<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Seasonal side dishes, sauces, and restricted balsamic vinegar<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As sauces, my favourite is a arugula sauce\/pesto<\/strong> or a sauce made with wilted cherry tomatoes<\/strong> and Parmesan <\/strong>cheese.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Veal meat with rocket, parmesan and vinegar<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Dennis, Villa d’Amelia<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

For side dishes I prefer seasonal ones<\/strong>, so all the vegetables<\/strong> available according to the season.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For the sauce, I would opt for the classic brown stock<\/strong>, which is made by cooking veal bones <\/strong>or waste meat<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Or a red wine sauce<\/strong>, such as one flavoured with seasonal red fruits: always brown stock or chicken stock (which are two different things) as a base and then go on to modify it with the various ingredients of your choice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Marisa, Cortiletto d’Alba<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Seasonal vegetables<\/strong> are the ideal side dish: in the summertime, courgettes<\/strong>, aubergines <\/strong>and Belgian chicory<\/strong>, which is very tasty if cut in half, or in four parts, and browned on the grill.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Mixed grilled vegetables<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

For sauces, I think of Piedmontese ketchup, the classic red sauce or salsa rubra<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Or bagnet verd <\/strong>made with parsley<\/strong>, pepper, hard-boiled egg, breadcrumbs soaked in vinegar and garlic (if undigested, add little or no garlic).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Do you have any general advice for all ‘budding grillers’ who will try their hand at grilling?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Ivano, Hotel Ristorante i Castelli<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

The first thing that comes to mind, which can be within everyone’s reach, is to marinate the meat before grilling<\/strong> with aromas and flavours, perhaps even the day before.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This type of procedure allows the cut to become tastier<\/strong> and softer<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dennis, Villa d’Amelia<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

I must admit that I envy these summer grillers<\/strong> a lot, I have a very busy working season ahead of me!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For me, grilling is about conviviality<\/strong>, the main thing is to cook together, spend time with friends and relax.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If I have to suggest something, it is to buy “interesting” cuts of meat<\/strong>, such as the diaphragm, which has a special cooking process.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In short, cuts that are different from the ones you usually find and don’t settle for the simplest things<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Have fun<\/strong> though!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Marisa, Cortiletto d’Alba<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

My advice is not to live the grilling moment with performance anxiety: enjoy the pleasure of hosting people<\/strong>, don’t create problems for yourself and do it cheerfully and light-heartedly, things done this way certainly come out well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Oh, and never give up the grill<\/strong>!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The ideal way to grill is using soapstone<\/strong>, because the fumes do not come into direct contact with the meat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But now it’s your turn\u2026<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

These are this year’s tips<\/strong> and tricks <\/strong>on the subject.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We hope we have been useful <\/strong>to you! See you again next year with vol. 4 of this column!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As Maurizio Costanzo<\/strong> would have said (albeit on the subject of right-collar shirts): have a good barbecue everyone<\/strong>!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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